Cuba, Between the Lines
A reflection on beauty, scarcity, and the quiet truths behind the lens
“We floated in a gentle buzz for weeks after returning from Cuba. It’s rare for a place to leave such an imprint. Surely, it wasn’t just the rum and cigars—it was something deeper, something that lingered in the soul.”
I’ve been unraveling the threads of our time in Cuba—an experience at once stirring and elusive, beautiful and bewildering. I’ve been sifting through our time in Cuba—revisiting photographs, replaying moments, and searching for language that could do justice to an experience both luminous and difficult to name.
Cuba was—undeniably—beautiful. Arrestingly so. A country awash in saturated color and brimming with artistic soul, where every street corner feels like a stage, every wall a canvas. The textures, the music, the light—everything pulses with a kind of unfiltered vitality. It’s a place that seizes the senses and doesn’t let go.
The island holds a rare, magnetic charm: a place where history hums through crumbling facades and music spills from open doorways like an eternal heartbeat. It is no exaggeration to say that my camera was overwhelmed—capturing breathtaking murals, aged colonial architecture draped in Caribbean light, street performances charged with soul, and spontaneous symphonies erupting from alleyways. The artistry of Cuba is omnipresent, stitched into the fabric of its daily life with unmistakable passion and grit. As you scroll through these images, I hope they offer a glimpse of the magic I witnessed: Cuba, in all its fierce color and character—so iconic, so passionate, so real.
And yet, even as I share these moments, I carry with me a certain guilt. A hesitation. Because what I’ve captured is the red-carpet version of Cuba—It’s the tourist’s lens, polished and privileged, not the unfiltered truth of the everyday Cuban. It is not the full story.
The Taste of Reality
The dissonance found its sharpest note during one of our final evenings in Havana. As a food and travel writer, I had arrived with a sense of anticipation—hungry not just for meals, but for meaning. I imagined Cuba’s cuisine would unfold like a story: rich with heritage, bold with flavor, layered with regional nuance. I had envisioned a culinary journey akin to the ones I’d written about in places like New Orleans or New York—distinct, varied, and brimming with personality.
But reality told a quieter, more sobering tale.
By the time we reached our seventh paladar—one of Cuba’s privately owned restaurants—the menus had begun to blur. Night after night, we were met with the same offerings: roasted chicken, ropa vieja, grilled snapper, black beans, white rice. Reliable, hearty, generous plates—yes—but echoing one another in their sameness. The repetition wore on me. I found myself searching the dishes for the vibrancy I’d encountered everywhere else in Cuba—in its murals, its music, its people—and too often, coming up empty.
There were moments of brilliance: a perfectly grilled lobster tail and a lush white fish in simple sauce, a refined seafood tasting in Havana, delicate and precise in execution. But these were rare flashes of variety in a culinary landscape shaped not by choice, but by limitation. These meals stood out not because they were exceptional, but because they were possible at all—an indulgence often inaccessible to the very people who call Cuba home.
I hadn’t expected such restraint. I hadn’t expected to confront the quiet absence of possibility—on the plate, and beyond it.
The Absence of Choice
In Cuba, variety is not a matter of taste—it’s a matter of access. Of systems. Of history.
Scarcity shapes the menu before the chef does.
The truth is both simple and sobering: in Cuba, variety isn’t a given. It’s a luxury—often out of reach, even for those cooking the meals. Scarcity dictates the kitchen. The truth is both simple and sobering: in Cuba, variety isn’t a given. It’s a luxury—often out of reach, even for those cooking the meals. Scarcity dictates the kitchen.
Grocery stores are sparse. Meat is rationed. Eggs are distributed by lists. Produce—when it appears—is often priced well beyond what most families can afford. The average Cuban makes around $30 a month. Chefs cook what they can get, not always what they dream of serving. Even the most talented among them are often working with the same small palette of ingredients, day in and day out.
We, as visitors, noticed the sameness. But we had options. We could choose when and where and whether to eat something else. They could not. And that difference—subtle in the moment—revealed the depth of the divide.
That’s when the “why” began to truly settle in.
Why is it like this?
Why has it stayed like this?
Why must a country so full of spirit carry such disproportionate strain?
The questions aren’t new. In fact, they’re stitched into the very history of Cuba—into the revolution, the embargo, the economic experiments and geopolitical standoffs. But it’s one thing to read about it, and another to sit with the evidence, steaming quietly on your plate.
We became weary of the lack of choice—but we had a choice. Our discomfort was temporary. Theirs is structural.
A Dual Portrait
Cuba is a living paradox—simultaneously iconic and invisible, vibrant and veiled. It’s a place of immense pride and persistent hardship, where artistry blooms beside scarcity.
What I’ve tried to share here is not just a collection of postcard moments, but a fuller portrait: a nation of beauty and complexity, joy and resilience, and a reality that deserves more than just admiration—it deserves understanding.
If you’re planning to visit Cuba, come for the music, the history, the warmth—but stay long enough to listen. To look beyond the facade. To see not just what’s offered to you, but what’s withheld from those who live there.
Because the true story of Cuba isn’t just what’s captured in photos—it’s what lingers after the shutter clicks.
What the Eye Sees, What the Heart Feels & What the Camera Misses
My camera was endlessly busy. How could it not be? Cuba is made for the lens. Weathered balconies draped in laundry like prayer flags, pastel cars gleaming beneath dusty palms, dancers moving like language in the street, paintings that feel like memories pinned to walls. It is dazzling and difficult, poetic and political, joyful and constrained. It’s a country where music spills into the streets even as basic resources run dry. Where art thrives against the odds. Where pride and resilience fill the spaces that scarcity leaves behind.
The island radiates personality and character—so visceral, so human, so alive. I shared these images, hoping to convey some sliver of what I’d felt. But even as I posted them, I felt a dissonance I couldn’t shake.
Because this—what you see—is the tourist’s Cuba. The curated reel. The romantic version. A red-carpet view of a country dressed in grit and grace. It is beautiful, yes. But it is not the whole story. And it certainly isn’t the local one.
Cuba left me somber. Not saddened exactly, but stirred by a kind of deep, unshakable wondering. A quiet ache of questions with no easy answers. Why is it this way? Why has it stayed this way?
The Quiet Weight of Witnessing
Cuba is many things. It is alive with creativity, thick with memory, charged with contradiction. It’s both dazzling and depleted, festive and fragile. To visit is to be swept up in its rhythm—and then, if you’re paying attention, to feel the ache beneath the song.
What I experienced was not disappointment. It was respect edged with sadness. Admiration tempered by the knowledge that beauty here does not equal ease. That behind the vibrant murals and rooftop views is a country still wrestling with forces much larger than any one meal or photo or story can contain.
To visit Cuba is to fall in love—and then to understand that love alone is not enough. You must also be willing to witness what lies beneath the beauty. To hold both the magic and the melancholy at once.
This post is not a guide, and certainly not a critique. It is a portrait—imperfect, incomplete, but honest. A reflection on what it means to travel with open eyes and an open heart. To celebrate, and also to question. To savor what is offered, and to recognize what is missing.
Because the story of Cuba—like all stories worth telling—lives not just in what we see, but in what we learn to see through.
What I carry with me is a kind of reverent quiet. Gratitude, yes—but also a discomfort I choose not to ignore. Because to bear witness and only speak of the beauty is to flatten the truth.
Cuba is not broken. But it is burdened. And to love it, truly, is to see both.
A cigar in Cuba is not merely smoked—I’s a ritual, a religion, wrapped in leaves and legacy, lit with pride.
You wear the red floral dress by the vintage car in Havana. It’s a dream—but not without its shadows
Just kilometers separate two men, yet they carry identical silent worries—a burden that quietly bridges their pain
In the pulse of Cuba’s streets, strong women weave hope from modest meals, their smiles painting resilience across hardship’s canvas.
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